Costume colloquium 3 Robes du passé , mode du futurn Florence, Italie 7-11 novembre

Oct 31, 2012 by

A partir du 7 novembre prochain, l’Italie se pose en chef de file de la réflexion sur le costume : nous avons déjà fait remarquer combien la France était en retard par rapport à nos voisins. 2 représetantes du musée Galiéra seront présentes, cependant. On ne peut que déplorer le peu d’informations qui ont circulées dans les universités françaises… En mars 2013 aura lieu le premier colloque qui doit faire le point sur la recherche sur le costume de scène en France. Nous vous tiendrons informés.

Wednesday, November 7th

15:00-18:00 Registration at the conference venue Auditorium al Duomo (Via de’ Cerretani 54r)

18:00 Welcome Reception at UB (Via dei Conti, 4r)

Thursday, November 8th


9:00 Welcome:

• PAOLO DEL BIANCO (President, Fondazione Romauldo Del Bianco® – Life Beyond Tourism®);

• KIRSTEN ASCHENGREEN PIACENTI (President, Associazione Amici della Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti);

• CRISTINA ACIDINI (Soprintendente Speciale per il Patrimonio Storico, Artistico e Etnoantropologico e per il Polo Museale della Città di Firenze)

9:15 Introduction: ROBERTA ORSI LANDINI – Florence, Italy (Costume and Textile Historian)

SESSION I: Interpreting Fashion of the Past in the Past /  Interpretare la moda del passato nel passato


9:30 CHARLOTTE NICKLAS – Brighton, UK (Lecturer, History of Art and Design School of Humanities Faculty of Arts, University of Brighton)

‘There is a Great Deal of Searching into Former Times’: Fashion and The Past in the Mid-19th Century

9:50 ALEXANDRA BOSC – Paris, France (Curator, Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris)

Costume Transformations as a Way of Legitimization for the French Bourgeoisie in the Second Part of the 19th Century

10:10 SUSIE RALPH – Bath, UK (Lecturer, Fashion and Textiles, Dept. of Historical and Critical Studies, Bath School of Art and Design, Bath Spa University)

Inspired by the Antique: Margaine-Lacroix and The Robe Tanagréenne

10:30 Break

SESSION II: Returning to the Future: Inspirations and Influences of Past Traditions in Fashion Today /  Tornare al futuro: Ispirazioni dal passato per le creazioni di oggi


11:00 BINA SENGAR – Aurangabad Maharashtra, India (Assistant Professor, History Department of History & AIC, Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar Marathwada University)

Costumes in ‘Deccani Paintings’: Inspiring Contemporary and Future Fashion

11:20 LICIA TRIOLO – Florence, Italy (Collaborator, Textile Conservation Laboratory, Opificio delle Pietre Dure) with SUSANNA CONTI – Florence, Italy (Head Conservator, Textile Conservation Laboratory, Opificio delle Pietre Dure) and NAOMI KATŌ – Florence, Italy (Costume and Textile Historian)

Conservare ed innovare: Le tecniche storiche, la ricerca e la conservazione di un costume militare giapponese /Conservation and Innovation: Traditional Techniques, Research and Conservation of a Japanese Military Uniform

11:40 JONATHAN FAIERS – Winchester, UK (Reader in Fashion Theory, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton)

Past Perfect?

12:00 LIGAYA SALAZAR – London, UK (Curator of Contemporary Programs, Victoria and Albert Museum)

“With My Eyes Turned to the Past, I Walk Backwards into the Future” Yohji Yamamoto’s Non-Fashions


• PASCALE GORGUET BALLESTEROS – Paris, France (Chief Curator, Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris)

A Few Thoughts Inspired by the Exhibition “The 18th Century Back in Fashion” Versailles 2011

• HOSHINO TSUJI – Kyoto, Japan (Director, Kyokane Co. Ltd.)

Traditional Techniques in Contemporary Fashion: the Kyokane Dress Collection

12:40 Discussion

13:00 Lunch Break


SESSION III: Rediscovering Historical Techniques, Tastes and Trends /  Riscoperta di tecniche del passato


14:30 SUSAN NEILL – Chicago, Illinois, USA (Independent Costume and Textiles Scholar)

The Texture of Ideas: Dynamic Symmetry in Handwoven Textiles by Mary Crovatt Hambidge

14:50 KIMBERLY ALEXANDER – Durham, New Hampshire, USA (Visiting Assistant Professor, Department of History, University of New Hampshire) with EMMA HOPE – London, UK (Shoe Designer and Producer)

Brocade and Paste Buckles: The London Work of Thomas Ridout, James Davis and Emma Hope

15:10 ALLA MYZELEV – Guelph, Ontario, Canada (Assistant Professor, School of Fine Art and Music, University of Guelph)

Have you Heard? Knitting is Cool Again: Reinventing the Handmade through Performance

15:30 JOY SPANABEL EMERY – West Kingston, Rhode Island, USA (Curator, Commercial Pattern Archive, Robert L. Carothers Library, University of Rhode Island)

Tissues of Dreams: Documents of Fashion

15:50 HANNAH WROE – Nottingham, UK (Researcher, Lecturer, Dress Historian and Historical Pattern Cutter)

Pattern Cutting Publications 1935-1955: A Pattern Cutters Perspective

16:10 CLAIRE BONAVIA – Tarxien, Malta (Principal Textile Conservator, Lecturer, Conservation Division, Heritage Malta)

Maltese Country Folk Costumes

16:30 Discussion

16:45 Presentation of the Museo Gucci – GRAZIA VENNERI (Historical Archives Manager, Gucci International PR Dept.)

17:30 Visit and reception at Museo Gucci


Friday, November 9th


SESSION IV: Collecting Fashion: Aims and Accessibility /  Collezioni del passato: finalità e accessibilità


9:00 MARY M. BROOKS – York, UK (Museum and Textile Conservation Consultant and Lecturer, Culture Heritage, Durham University)

‘My Yellow Dress Seems to Have Attained Celebrity’: Acquiring and Displaying the Dress and Textile Collection at York Castle Museum, England

9:20 CHRISTINA JOHNSON – Los Angeles, California, USA (Associate Museum Curator, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising)

Doris Langley Moore: Ultimate “Woman in Fashion”

9:40 SARAH POINTON – Sydney, Australia (Assistant Registrar, Powerhouse Museum)

The Australian Dress Register: Accessing the Past through Dress

10:00 Discussion

10:15 Break

SESSION V: Learning from Dress Collections and Fashion Documents /  Raccolte e documenti della moda come strumenti didattici


10:45 CAROLINE MARIE BELLIOS – Chicago, Illinois, USA (Assistant Director, the Fashion Resource Center, Instructor, Department of Fashion Design at The School of the Art Institute of Chicago) with MICHAL LYNN SHUMATE – Chicago, Illinois, USA (Special Project Coordinator, Fashion Resource Center at The School of the Art Institute of Chicago)

A Study Collection: New Technologies and Functionalities

11:05 MARIE McLOUGHLIN – London, UK (Freelance Designer, Lecturer at the University of Brighton)

Bricolage and Historicism: British Designers as Storytellers

11:25 DALE PEERS – Toronto, Ontario, Canada (Professor and Costume Coordinator, Seneca Fashion Resource Centre, Seneca College)

Making Fashion History Fashion Present

11:45 Discussion


• ALESSANDRA AREZZI BOZA – Florence, Italy (Fashion Curator, Communication Manager for Europeana Fashion, Fondazione Rinascimento Digitale)

Europeana Fashion: Disclosing European’s Fashion Heritage Online

• STEFANIA RICCI – Florence, Italy (Director, Museo Salvatore Ferragamo)


12:30 Lunch Break


SESSION VI: Conserving and Displaying Dress and Costumes /  Conservazione e allestimento di abiti e costumi storici


13:30 JOANNA HASHAGEN – County Durham, UK (Curator of Textiles, The Bowes Museum, Barnard Castle)

The New Fashion & Textile Gallery at The Bowes Museum

13:50 JANET WOOD – London, UK (Freelance Consultant in the Conservation, Interpretation and Display of Historic Dress)

‘Old Materials, New Solutions’: the Development of Acrylic Mannequins for the Display of Historic Dress

14:10 CLAUDIA P. IANNUCCILLI – Boston, Massachusetts, USA (Associate Textile and Costume Conservator, Museum of Fine Arts)

Grecian Pageantry Costume at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

14:30 SUZANNE CHEE – Sydney, Australia (Conservator of Textiles, Costume and Dress, Powerhouse Museum)

Speedo® Swimwear – Race against Time

14:50 ALAZNE PORCEL ZIARSOLO – Bilbao, Spain (PhD, University of the Basque Country) with ENARA ARTETXE SANCHEZ – Bilbao, Spain (Fine Art Faculty, in the Conservation and Restoration Department, University of the Basque Country); BEATRIZ SAN SALVADOR AGEO – Bilbao, Spain (Teaches at the Fine Arts Faculty of the University of the Basque Country, Spain); CARLOS VENEGAS GARCÍA – Bilbao, Spain (Teacher, Fine Art Faculty, Restoration Dept., Univ. of the Basque Country – Art History Faculty in Vitoria-Gasteiz)

Conservation of 20th Century Fashion Collections: The Cristobal Balenciaga Museum Collection

15:10 Discussion

15:30 Presentation of the Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti – CATERINA CHIARELLI (Director)

Omaggio a Anna Piaggi: fra analogie e dissonanze  della moda / A Tribute to Anna Piaggi: Between Similarities and Differences

16:30 Visit of the Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti (until 18:30)


Saturday, November 10th


SESSION VII: Recycling, Repurposing and Wearing Vintage and Dress of the Past /  Vintage, riciclaggio e riadattamento della moda


9:00 THESSY SCHOENHOLZER NICHOLS – Florence, Italy (Textile and Costume Historian)

Recycle, Readapt and Reuse in the Past: To Smarten Up or To Extend Wear?

9:20 ALEXANDRA PALMER – Toronto, Ontario, Canada (Nora E. Vaughan Fashion Costume Senior Curator, Royal Ontario Museum)

Reframing Reconfigured Luxury Fashion

9:40 AGATA ZBOROWSKA – Warsaw, Poland (PhD Candidate, University of Warsaw)

Cultural Recycling: Reinterpretation of History in Modern Fashion

10:00 JEANNIE MARIE GALIOTO – San Diego, California, USA (Assistant Professor, University of San Diego; Teacher of Costume History, The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising; Freelance Costume Designer)

Victorian Fashion as an Underground Subculture: the Tainted and Worldly Beauty of Steampunk

10:20 Discussion

10:30 Break

SESSION VIII: Reconstructing and Reproducing  Historical Clothes /  Ricostruzioni, riproduzioni di abiti storici storiche


11:00 SARA PICCOLO PACI – Florence, Italy (Independent Scholar of Costume, Fashion and Tailoring Techniques, Art History and Cultural Anthropology)

The 12th Century Inspired Costumes of the Palio di Legnano: 80 Years of Challenging Identities

11:20 BRENDA ROSSEAU – Williamsburg, Virginia, USA (Manager, Costume Design Center, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation)

Recreating Dress for the Visitable Past

11:40 DEIRDRE MURPHY – London, UK (Curator of Collections, Historic Royal Palaces)

“Arrayed with Gorgeous Splendour”: Clothing for Queen Victoria’s Costume Balls

12:00 TERESA CRISTINA TOLEDO DE PAULA – São Paulo, Brazil (PhD, Textile Conservator, Museu Paulista, Universidade de São Paulo) with RITA MORAIS DE ANDRADE – Goiânia, Brazil (PhD, Dress Historian, Faculty of Visual Arts, Universidade Federal de Goiás)

REPLICAR: a Multidisciplinary Experience in a 1900´s Dress Reproduction for Contemporary Museum Research and Display

12:20 DINIE VAN DEN HEUVEL – Eindhoven, Holland (Teacher of Fashion History and Techniques, CEO of d’Andt, Belgium)

‘Hidden Treasures’- a Research Project on Garments Used for Smuggling

12:40 Discussion

13:00 Lunch Break


SESSION IX: Dressing Performers for the Performing Arts: Designers, Creations and Fashion Influences /  Vestire i protagonisti dello spettacolo: i creatori, le creazioni e le influenze nella moda


14:00 MICHELLE TOLINI FINAMORE – Boston, Massachusetts, USA (Curator of Fashion Arts, Museum of Fine Arts)

Venus in Finery: The Seductress of Silent Cinema

14:20 BONNIE KRUGER – Saint Louis Missouri, USA (Professor of the Practice Costume Design, Performing Arts Dept., Washington University, St. Louis) with HOLLY POE DURBIN, Irvine, California, USA (Associate Professor, Head of Costume Design, University of California, Irvine)

“I Don’t Dress Movie Stars, I Dress Characters”: The Exceptional Career of Costume Designer Ann Roth

14:40 CHARLOTTE OSSICINI – Bologna, Italy (PhD in Theatrical and Cinema Studies, Universita’ di Bologna – Alma Mater Studiorum)

Performing Vintage: The Costumes Archive of the Teatro delle Albe

15:00 Discussion

15:15 Presentation of the Museo del Tessuto di Prato, their upcoming exhibition: “Vintage: L’irresistibile fascino del vissuto”and the Giovanni Masi Vintage Stock House – DANIELA DEGL’INNOCENTI (Curator, Museo del Tessuto di Prato)

15:30 Presentation of the Museo di Palazzo Davanzati – BRUNELLA TEODORI (Director)

16:30 Visit and Reception Museo di Palazzo Davanzati

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